A few hours into the drive, it hit me—this wasn't the Turkiye I thought I knew. The sun filtered through towering spruce forests, cows grazed on misty hills, and the air smelled of damp earth and pine.
A world away from Istanbul's domes and bustle, Turkiye's Black Sea coast quietly reveals one of the country's most stunning and overlooked journeys.
If you're a nature lover, slow traveler, or someone craving a deeper connection with local culture, this northern route—from Trabzon to the Uzungöl Highlands—is an experience you'll carry for years.
Trabzon: Where the Mountains Meet the Sea
Perched on the Black Sea's edge, Trabzon is the unofficial gateway to the region. Unlike Turkiye's popular western cities, Trabzon feels more grounded, almost raw. People speak softly, wear thick coats even in summer, and greet you like an old friend.
Start your day at the Hagia Sophia of Trabzon, a 13th-century Byzantine building turned mosque and museum. Entry is $2 USD, and while it's smaller than its namesake in Istanbul, the frescoes here feel more personal, more intact.
Getting in: Trabzon Airport (TZX) has daily domestic flights from Istanbul (1.5 hours). From the airport, the city center is just a 15-minute taxi ride (~$7 USD).
Local tip: Wake early and head to the Ortahisar neighborhood. Cobblestone alleys, tea gardens, and wooden homes tell stories untouched by mass tourism.
Sumela Monastery: Clinging to the Cliff
About an hour's drive south of Trabzon, you'll find one of the region's crown jewels: Sumela Monastery. Built into a sheer cliff face at 3,900 feet, it's not just a special site—it's a marvel of architecture and human endurance.
To get there, you'll drive through Altındere Valley National Park, thick with fir trees and rushing streams. Entry to the park is $1.50 USD per car, and the monastery entrance adds another $4 USD.
From the parking area, it's a 20–30 minute uphill walk (wear good shoes—it's steep and cobbled). Alternatively, you can pay $1 USD for a shared shuttle to skip the steepest part.
When to go: April to October is best. Avoid Mondays—Sumela is closed. Arrive before 9 a.m. to avoid tour buses.
Why it matters: Beyond its cliffside views, the monastery offers Byzantine-era frescoes that are hauntingly beautiful, many of them weathered but still expressive.
Uzungöl: The Heart of the Highlands
Roughly 90 minutes inland from Trabzon lies Uzungöl (meaning "Long Lake"), a place so picturesque it almost feels staged. Imagine a glacial lake nestled between dramatic green slopes, with wooden chalets scattered along the shore. Morning fog drapes the scene like a veil.
This isn't a place for rushing. It's for slow walks, tea by the lake, and breathing in air so clean it almost startles you.
Top things to do:
1. Hike to Karester Hill – Panoramic views of the lake, especially at sunrise.
2. Ride up to Demirkapı Plateau – A rugged dirt road (accessible by 4WD taxis for around $10 USD round-trip) leads to a remote alpine village that feels plucked from another time.
3. Try local dishes – Go for muhlama, a cheesy cornmeal dish served bubbling hot, and kuymak, its heartier cousin. Most meals are under $5–8 USD per person.
Where to stay: Family-run guesthouses dominate here, many with lake views and simple breakfast included. Expect to pay $30–60 USD/night.
Why It Feels Like a Different Country
Traveling Turkiye's Black Sea region feels like discovering a parallel universe.
While Istanbul blends European elegance with Ottoman grandeur, the Black Sea coast pulses with Laz, Georgian, and Pontic Greek roots. You'll hear a different dialect, taste different dishes, and notice a slower rhythm of life.
People here are deeply connected to the land. Farming tea, tending herds, and harvesting hazelnuts aren't just jobs—they're family traditions passed down over centuries. Don't be surprised if someone offers you a glass of tea while you're walking a mountain trail. That's just how things are done here.
Nature Lover's Route Planning
If you want to make the most of this region, here's a 4-day sample itinerary:
Day 1: Trabzon
• Arrive, visit Hagia Sophia
• Dinner in the city center—try Karalahana Çorbası (Black Cabbage Soup)
• Overnight stay in Ortahisar
Day 2: Sumela Monastery + Maçka Village
• Morning at Sumela
• Afternoon stroll in Maçka, a quiet highland town with riverside cafés
• Stay in a guesthouse nearby ($25–40 USD/night)
Day 3: Uzungöl
• Head to Uzungöl early (public buses run from Trabzon twice daily; or rent a car for flexibility)
• Walk the lake loop trail (flat and scenic, ~2 hours at a relaxed pace)
• Overnight in a lakeside chalet
Day 4: Explore Highlands
• Take a 4WD tour to Yaylalar (seasonal mountain villages)
• Return to Trabzon by evening or fly out directly if timing allows
It's easy to miss this part of Turkiye when glossy brochures are filled with Cappadocia balloons and Aegean beaches. But for those who venture north, the Black Sea coast offers something deeper—something that speaks not just to your camera, but to your soul.
Maybe that's why I've thought more about my days in Uzungöl and Sumela than any other stop on my trip. It wasn't just the views—it was the quiet, the kindness, the space to breathe.
If you've been craving a journey that surprises you, gently and thoroughly, this might be the route you didn't know you needed.
